Illustration by Damian
Growing up having to wear a tie as a
daily uniform was never a fashion statement. I never paid much attention to the
actual knot, I was more concerned about how I was going to integrate this
additional sign of uniformity. Of
course, during official gatherings, it had to be worn firmly close at the neck.
So not wanting to look like a total geek, the common style was the knot that
looked the most undone, known as the Four in Hand knot.
Years later, now in Paris, I avoided
wearing ties as much as possible. Casual chic was in its heyday, and as grunge
culture allowed for just t's, I got by just fine. But like all movements, the
next is usually a reaction to the previous, and I found myself obsessed again with
my childhood accessory. Thus started my quest for the perfect knot.
Of course, the answer commonly given was
the dimpled Windsor.
Surely the Duke is an icon of gentlemanly
chic, so how could you go wrong! Not!
Things have changed.
That perfect bulb of fabric, emanating
from a crisp collar, looks silly. So if you're not a Duke or any sort of high
aristocrat, it's a Don't. Plus getting that little dimple just right is not
that simple.
Of courses there's always exceptions,
with the thickness, width and fabric to think about. But with my current tie
collection, the Windsor is not for them.
As a rule, your tie should sprout from a
small knot forming a delicate curve from the neck to the shirt.
Plus the knot should be compact. Here's
where you get boyscout points.
I don't want to say that's all, because
it's not easy to look easy. That chic effortlessness takes practice.
And if you think that was easy, wait
until you try bow ties.
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